Tracking the Sierra Nevada Spring into Summer-Thaw of 2011

Introduction

Greetings. I'm Alex Wierbinski, and I started up this continuing post in early May so you could both obtain and contribute information that backpackers, hikers, and even you climbers need to track the Spring Thaw of 2011.

We have been tracking the incredibly heavy Spring conditions that have pushed heavy snow conditions deep into Summertime for four months now, into mid August. Our starting goal was to ascertain when we Summertime Backpackers could finally gain snow-free access to the High Sierra Nevada Mountains in California.

As of August 21 2011 I am "calling" it:

Summer Conditions exist on the High Sierra Trails between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney. Though areas of  heavy snow persist in shaded NE facing aspects, most trails are substantially clear of snow. River crossings have subsided to near-normal levels for this time of year.

Late reports indicate that the mosquito populations are rapidly declining.

The conditions in the Sierra Nevada have finally about caught up with the calendar.

POST CURRENT CONDITIONS REPORTS ON THE

Season Reports: Summer-August-September 2011 in the High Sierra

The following report of the trajectory of the epic snows of the Spring-Summer of 2011 will be preserved as a record of this epic season, and so backpackers during future snowy Summers will have a frame of reference.

Earlier Reports:

AUGUST 21, 2011

Ken and Theo just called from Reds Meadow with this late report on conditions between Tuolumne Meadows and Reds.

Very light snow at high elevation passes. Donohue Pass almost clear.  

Mosquito populations way down.

Creek levels down to almost normal levels. Easy fording.

Lots of trail traffic: seeing hikers at thirty minute intervals.

Al's final analysis

AUGUST 21, 2011

It looks like Summertime is finally here. Trails are finally open for all travelers. But, there is still stubbon snow in shaded high elevation NE facing aspects, and there will be snow tongues across the trail in various shaded and protected locations.

Mosquito reports indicate that the skeeter population is crashing. The drying out of the meadows is finally happening, and the skeeter populations are declining radically.

Overall, it is looking like the conditions on the mountains are finally catching up with the date shown on the calendar.

So this will be my last entry in the Spring Thaw Report of 2011.

The following reports following below will be maintained as a record of the Spring Thaw of 2011.

Tracking the Spring thaw deep into Summer this year reveals that we still do not have snow free conditions as of August 19.

As Topper's series of high quality reports below indicates, the Sierra may not be fully snow free before the first Winter snows fall.

What is sure is that we are now experiencing among the heaviest late-season snow and mosquito seasons in living memory. The persistance of the early season snow through Summer's peak has translated into late season moisture that is currently supporting very heavy mosquito populations long past the normal point in time the mosquitoes would have declined into insignificance.

Muck and Mosquitoes will greet backpackers treading around the remaining high elevation snow berms, and follow them all the way down to the wet river valleys.

Lower elevation meadows and river valleys are still holding sigificant amounts of life-giving moisture necessary to maintian huge mosquitoe populations. The record Spring and Summer snowpacks are now feeding a record late-season mosquito population.

Goal

The early goal was to assist hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail, the John Muir Trail, and other long-distance High Sierra backpackers, and then Summertime Sierra travelers, determine when the High Sierra Crest Trails would finally be open for their particular level of skills as the snows receded. Finally, we planned on reporting when the High trails finally reached Summertime hiking conditions. 

As you can see from the long line of reports below, we carefully tracked the evolution of conditions in the High Sierra during the Spring of 2011 from May to late August.

The continuing goal was to provide information so Pacific Crest Trail backpackers can  determine when they can access the Sierra Crest.

  As of July came and went the majority of The Body of PCT hikers had bypassed the Sierra Nevada due to these heavy early-season snow and accompanying dangerous river levels. Most PCT hikers have now doubled-back (early Aug.), as the majority of the trail route finally began to appear through the snow.

Yet much heavier than normal snow conditions have persisted into mid-August. Read more about this below.

It's finally getting close to completely open trails kids, but the late season has maintiained  rivers and creeks at unseasonable high levels right now. I still advise EXTREME CAUTION for all High Sierra Backpackers, as well as Day Hikers in the High Sierra.

The rivers and creeks are just now dropping down to their typical  "normal" low levels and easy fording conditions generally experienced during this time of year. "Enchanced" flows should be expected at all major river crossings, such as within the Five Canyons North of Tuolumne Meadows, AKA "Yosemite's Washboard." Read on. Recent reports from this section follow.

 I am posting any good information about the thaw I collect or you contribute. Feel free to contact me. Your perspective and experiences are valuable information.

I stongly suggest you carefully review the slowly evolving conditions through the August postings below, and explore the weather, snowpack, and river level information links below  the July 9 report, below. 

IN ANY CASE, BE CAREFUL!

Current & Last "Spring" Report from the Trail!

Current Report from the Trail!

AUGUST 8, 2011

Between Carson and Ebbetts Passes on the PCT:

Blue and Tamarack Lakes

  Dahlia reported that Blue Lakes Campground had just finally opened before their trip out there on August 8. Dahlia and her friends got their "old compact cars" out the dirt road to Tamarack Lake. They reported some real nice car camping sites at Tamarack Lake, very close to the PCT South of Blue Lakes.

Desolation Wilderness: Eagle Falls to Meeks Bay

AUGUST 8, 2011

At around the same time we got a report from Mimy.  Mimy's group hiked to the Pacific Crest Trail at Middle Velma Lake from Eagle Falls. From Middle Velma Lake they followed the Tahoe to Yosemite route up to the Meeks Bay trailhead.

Mimy says,  "I was amazed at the amount of snow and mosquitoes!"

Ebbetts Pass to Sonora Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail

AUGUST 2, 2011

Topper just called from Kennedy Meadows Pack Station...said the first truck that came by picked them up. The are sleeping in bunks tonight after having a wonderful steak dinner :) The Resort is clean and well worth the stop.

They passed dozens of PCT hikers and all but one couple were hike throughs...most hid out at Kennedy Meadows South till they could get through.

Most of the miles Topper and son put in were in snow, picking their way around snow drifts, some as high as 10'....hopefully they paved the way for those PCT hikers heading north. A couple of gals (from Oklahoma) headed the same way as Topper told him that they were using their footprints but Bruce lost track of them.

The snow in the morning is icy and slippery and the snow in the afternoon is easy to fall through.

Stream crossings have not been a problem though :)

They have had clear beautiful skies except for one day that was overcast ..which was good coverage because they were in a high area. Hope this helps.   s 

   INFORMATION

Warnings

Dangerous Fording, High River Levels, Flooding Dangers  

Current Backpacker-Backcountry travel warning.

   Current Flood Warnings from Sierra Nevada Thaw.

 NOTE: Though the travel and flood warnings are shifting all the time, use extreme caution at all river crossings, all the time, and especially now.

All of my warnings in the July 3 Spring Thaw Report below still stand.    

Late Media Report:

Matt Weiser's Warning: Lingering snow poses safety risk for mountain hikers 

River Levels: All

California Department of Water Resources

 The Big View

 These maps of Sierra Snow Cover will give you a broad view of the current massive snowpack sitting on the Sierra Crest and flanks:

Regional Snow Analyses: Sierra Nevada

Snow Cover  

Local Snow Sensors and Snow Conditions Reports  

South Lake Tahoe (map with linked locations of local reporting stations)

Carson Pass  (map with linked locations of local reporting stations)

All Snow Reporting Stations

California Department of Water Resources (snow-navigate the map for more sensors)

Sno Tel (Federal)

Weather Reports-Warnings

Forecast: NWS Carson Pass

Greater Tahoe Region Forecast  

River Levels  

River Levels: All

California Department of Water Resources

North and Central Sierra Nevada Radar

Reno  Radar Map

National Radar

Satellite

Northeast Pacific Imagery

All Pacific Satellites

Western United States  

Web Cams

Lake Tahoe  Web Cams

Sierra Visions Web Cams

Sources of Weather, Snow, and River Level Information

Most of these stations above report real time and recent snow depth, precipitation, and temperature information. As you will see, the Sierra is still holding a substantial amount of snow at high elevations right now.

Local and Low Routes

And you will also see that many local routes are substantially open. The key to knowing the difference will hinge on the status of the local high pass and the local river ford. If your local route stays away from high passes and big rivers, you should be OK.

Assume that the high pass will still be packed with soft snow, and the river ford will still be running very deep and strong. Local routes across the high wet passes are opening up, though the river fords are still looking dangerous.

This is finally the time in the season when the decision has to be made: should the snowshoes finally be put away, or carried all those miles over soggy ground up to a short snow covered high crossing? Hummm.

Post your comments below, or Register to post your own Spring Thaw pages here with your information and insight.

 THE INFORMATION RECORDED ON THIS SPRING THAW OF 2011 PAGE WILL BE MAINTAINED IN THE FORUM TO PROVIDE INFORMATION AND A REFERENCE POINT FOR FUTURE SPRING BACKPACKERS. 

JULY 29, 2011

11:41 AM 

We just received our second report directly from Topper who just hiked the PCT TYT route along the West side of Lake Tahoe. Topper and his son have just finished the segment of their hike South to Echo Chalet from Squaw Valley. Their destination is Tuolumne Meadow via the PCT route.

The conditions Topper described sound more like Mid-Spring than late Summer!

"MIle 1142 to Echo: Heavy snow on all NE flanks. Trail completely obscured on NE slopes: GPS and/or excellent map reading/navigation/ skills required to follow route. Many sections are clear of snow, but there are MILES of snow obscured trail to match the miles of open trails."

"Heavy snow banks around Suzie Lake, and heavy snow South of Lake Aloha. Snow travel is much more difficult than dry terrain, but we are still on schedule."

"Much of this snow may see the first snows of Winter"

 Today's report compliments Topper's report from yesterday:

Late Report from the Trail!

1:02 PM 

JULY 28, 2011

We just got a trail report from Topperxxx from the top of Dicks Pass, who is currently on a long-distance backpacking trip heading from Squaw Valley (West Lake Tahoe) down to Tuolumne Meadows with his son. His wife was kind enough to pass his phoned-in report from the top of Dicks Pass along to us:

"Hi Alex, B. called a few hours ago after huffing himself up to Dick's Pass. He quickly gave me a summary to pass onto you. He will call you once they can recharge batteries.   Heavy patches of snow all the way up and through Dick's Pass (all snow)...up PC? 1142   all NE facing slopes in trees had lots of snow,   definitely need GPS.   There were large sections free of snow, but muddy and wet (yeah for dirty girl gaiters)   mosquitoes not bad. Hope this helps someone, S."

Analysis

Thanks to Topperxxx and his fine family.

Alright kids, we can extrapolate a lot from Topper's report. Heavy Spring Conditions are still persisting on N and NE sides of the mountains, holding substantial amounts of soft, wet snow at relatively low elevations below Dicks Pass 9390 feet.

Add this information to Reaper's report below about snow conditions above 10,000 feet being heavy, and we can put together a good picture of High Sierra conditions.

As we can see from Topper's reports, the forest on the N side of Dicks Pass is preserving substantial snow beneth its shady cover, as is the forest South of Lake Aloha. Expect hard to cross snow with difficult irregular surfaces beneth the shade of a deep forest cover down to 8000 feet.

This surface will be hard and slick in the chill of the morning, softening into difficult "post-holing" conditions well before noon.

The muddy conditions below the melting snow line are generally gone by this time of the year, as are the snows. The high snows and the muck below still persists. This has been a truly amazing Spring and Summer. 

Note Topper's gratitude towards his gaiters. That says a lot about the snow and muck conditions still requiring gaiters. Note in Reaper's report below that he is calling for stability gear for ascending and descending steep snow covered mountain flanks.

I was amazed that Topper is not experiencing crazy thick skeeters. I've already received reports of thick skeeters, and hope that Topper's luck holds.

Backpackers must also consider that Topper is still in the Northern Sierra, and the crestline pushes constantly higher as they continue to hike further South towards Tuolumne Meadows. This means more high elevation snow as you head further South.

Overall, reports I've received indicate that you still should be comfortable with, and prepped for, navigating through high elevation snow on the high trails along the Sierra Nevada Crest. Many PCT hikers and long distance backpackers have now hiked the full span between Mount Whitney and Lake Tahoe.

Understand that traveling through snow is considerably more taxing than backpacking across hard surfaces. 

Those without excellent snow and fording skills as well as good fitness should still refrain from hitting the high trails, unless accompanined by an expert level backpacker with experience in Spring Snow and safe fording practices.

The reports below should add to your knowledge, especially Erin's PCT Journal, linked to below, which gives a pretty good recent view of the conditions between Tahoe and Tuolumne. 

Erin's journal shows that the 5 major fords between Tuolumne Meadows and Sonora Pass have moderated from rushing white water to a heavy waist-deep flow. Those reports are almost two weeks old now, so those fords should be substantially moderated by now, but should still command your full respect.

Heck, the minor tributaries and creeks that cross the trail are still substantial.

Use great caution at all fords.

JULY 16, 2011

Reaper has just hiked out of the Rae Lakes Basin for a few days off, after spending a full month up there working on the new Ranger Cabin.

Here's Reaper's late report 

Hey Alex,  

Just hiked down from Rae Lakes this morning, ugh! (22mi.)

Anyway the snow is pretty much gone in the lower elevations; below 10,000ft. and still pretty heavy on the passes. The north sides of course require poles or something for stability.  

There were a couple waist deep river crossings so tell everyone to be careful.  

The major obstacles are the logs and avalanche damage. The trail crews are super busy down low but haven't worked their way up into the JMT yet.

I crawled over, under or around at least 45 to 50 trees from Woods crossing down to Cedar.

Anyway hope that helps.  

Be safe my friend.  

Al's Analysis: The End is Near

I see the end of the snow conditions that are still currently packing the NE facing high trails and passes-while flooding the low drainages-as finally happening during the first week of August.

 Check the Comments for the latest postings by registered members and other visitors. Post up your scouting reports!

JULY 15, 2011  

LATE REPORT: Topperxxx has provided us with an excellent resource: A PCT journal from Erin, representing those intrepred PCTers who did not bypass the snow-filled Sierra. These journal entries will show you current conditions along the Sierra Crest through Yosemite to Kennedy Meadows through Echo Summit.

LATE REPORT: Balzaccom has provided us with a delightful account of his warmup trip, where he mostly focuses on proper gear rather than present conditions, but valuable information nonetheless.

Erin's PCT journal was just updated after resupplying at Kennedy Meadows on July 11. Erin's  journal well describes the current conditions in the Sierra Nevada: harrowing fords, being endlessly wet traveling through soft snow, and trail routes obscured by the late-season snow cover. Erin's journal gives us an excellent view of the rapidly depleating heavy snow still decorating the Sierra.

Erin's PCT blog: July 11, 2011, Kennedy Meadows

Erin's excellent descriptions of the harrowing fords in the five canyons North of Tuolumne Meadows in the North Yosemite backcountry are very informative for those considering High Sierra trips during the next week.

I am quite happy to say that Erin's observations and images support my recent analysis of trail conditions described below.

  JULY 12, 2011

Al's Analysis

Meltdown!

This last week has seen an incredible meltdown of the remaining High Sierra snow pack. Check out the full array of snow sensor station reports linked to below for precise details. The thaw is running at  much more than a foot a week at most locations.

Despite this rapid melt-off we can see from the overall snow map for July 10 that significant deposits of snow are still sitting on the Sierra Crest.

This overall picture of very late season snow coverage is backed up by the readings at Leavitt Lake. Leavitt Lake sits in a high basin facing Northeast, and it is still full of snow.

Not Yet Summer conditions in the High Passes or the  Deep Fords

Despite the deep snow in the selected locations above, most other locations have completely melted out, or are running thin snow. But the high elevation trails are are not yet fully melted-out nor are they in Summertime form.

Trail Damage

I'm also assuming that none of the trail damage, the downed trees, or the trails blocked by avalanche and other damages left in the wake of the retreating Winter conditions have  yet been cleared from the newly exposed trails.

Expect obstacles and degraded sections of trail until the Rangers can finally ride the trails to pinpoint the damage for the repair crews.

The End is Near

I see the end of the snow conditions that are still currently packing the high trails and passes-while flooding the low drainages-as finally happening during the first week of August.

REPORT: JULY 9, 2011 

See Topperxxx's comment at the bottom of this page relating the current extreme fording dangers in the Sierra for backpackers, as well as flood warnings for communities up and down the East side of the Sierra Nevada. 

REPORT: JULY 3, 2011  

At this normally "late" date in the long-distance High Sierra backpacking season the vast majority of Long Distance Backpackers on the Pacific Crest Trail would have already hiked Northward across the majority of the Sierra Crestline.

PCT Hikers have already bypassed the Sierra

The bulk of "the body"  of PCT hikers would be well past Lake Tahoe by now, and laggards and late starters would be crossing the North Sierra and approaching Lake Tahoe. Early or Fast PCTers would already be looking at Oregon in their mad rush Northward. Not so this year.

At this point in time "the body" of Pacific Crest Trail hikers have already bypassed the Sierra Nevada Mountains due to the deep Winter and Spring snows still sitting on the length of the Sierra Crest.

Like those who were forced to bypass the Sierra Nevada's heavy Spring snowpack last year, this year's crop of PCT hikers is planning on doubling-back to hike the Sierra after the heavy snows have cleared and the dangerous river fords have subsided.

That point has not yet happened. (Late July: Many PCTers appear to have doubled-back, and are now heading North through the Sierra)

Southbound hikers along the Sierra Crest late this Summer will meet Pacific Crest Trail through hikers in August again this year, a strange event normally, and doubly strange because it has happened two years in a row.

Serious Snow Conditions at High Elevations and  Dangerous River Fords

Those Pacific Crest Trail hikers who have chosen to backpack through the Sierra in this year's exceptionally difficult snow and fording conditions must be fully equipped for the conditions, experienced in these difficult types of conditions, and be completely physically fit to withstand the strain.

Any long distance backpackers along the main Sierra Crest Trails who are lacking any of these attributes are endangering themselves, as well as those who will be called out to rescue them, or recover their bodies.

Conditions in the Sierra are that serious right now.

At this point the Pacific Crest Trail hikers who have not bypassed the Sierra Nevada are facing not just the ordeal of crossing deep wet snow at high elevations, but are also looking at crossing river fords that are running at nothing less than deadly levels at all of the lower elevation fords between the difficult snow-packed mountain passes they just struggled through.

Dangers for all levels of Backcountry Travelers

The current snow conditions in the mountains presents a moderate danger to backpackers who are well-equipped, experienced, and skilled snow backpackers, but the river fords are an extreme danger to even the most experienced and super-strong backpackers.

These are not Summer backpacking conditions sutiable for the typically equipped Summer backpacker.  Though it is Summertime, and the calendar says that it is a holiday, and it is getting incredibly hot at all elevations, the heavy snow at moderate to high elevations, and the raging rivers flowing at dangerous levels clearly indicates that the Sierra Nevada is not experiencing typical Summer backpacking conditions.

We are experiencing the equilivant of the massive amount of snows the mountains hold in May melting out rapidly during the heat of an August day, all happening over the Fourth of July Holiday when the mountains are drawing large amounts of visitors unprepared for the conditions.

This is a deadly mixture.

Note the lessons, not the Numbers

I have not made a tally of the Spring fatalities so far, nor will I. I will publish and link to information about the dangerous conditions. Nor have I tried to track the rescues and precipitious exits the late storms and hard conditions have initiated among the intrepred few attempting to follow the Sierra Nevada Crest trails this Spring, though I am sure the number is high.

I am interested in accident reports that will highlight and educate backpackers about the current extreme dangers facing backpackers in the High Sierra.

I am interested in your reports from the Sierra Nevadas on their current conditions, and I am currently awaiting a report from Reaper, who has been at Rae Lakes for a couple of weeks now. I believe his report on the conditions of the Pacific Crest Trail hikers he has encountered will be interesting, and I hope not too tragic.

Reaper will have excellent stories, if I can get him to tell them...

This Spring Thaw during Summertime has the potential to kill a lot of backcountry travelers who do not have the skills or lack the sense to bypass the mountains and rivers in their current dangerous conditions, until both are suitable for their level of experience.

I will focus on the positive.

A backpacker equipped for Spring snow conditions, emphasizing having the clothing, the boots, the gaiters, and the specific gear focused to provide protection against the potential of  post-holing into wet snow in very wet conditions, where hiking through the snow involves drenching yourself up to your waist along significant lengths of the High Sierra Trails, rather than for protection against weather and cold temps, will be well prepared. 

Below the snowline, the muddy quagmire that awaits you also requires proper preparation, not just against wet, muddy feet, but from the dense clouds of mosquitoes that are rising out of the muck and the wet meadows.

NOTE

Though backpacking conditions are incredibly dangerous right now, and the dangers of generalized flooding downriver in the foothills and Valley are also very high, we are almost at the end of this incredible season of tracking the downright wild Spring Thaw of 2011.

"What a long strange trip its been."

 This heatwave is going to clean out most of the high elevation snow still packing the high passes by Tuesday. Check the regional snow analysis link below, and run a few recent dates through it to note the rapid recent decline of the High Sierra snow coverage. It has been dramatic during the past three days.    

  JUNE 30, 2011

Late Tragic News from Yosemite

3:20 PM PDT

Two backpackers have been reported drowned after being "swept from a bridge" while crossing over the Tuolumne River. The report indicated the backpackers were ultimately swept into the Hetch Hetch Reservoir.

Only the barest details have been released. I wonder if they were swept from the bridge over the Tuolumne River above Glen Aulin and below Tuolumne Meadows. As you can see from the pictue below this is a very low bridge with minimal hand rails. The view of the bridge below is looking South on the trail South from Glen Aulin to Tuolumne Meadows.

The video embedded on this page (scroll to the bottom of the page) shows you the terrain on the Northeast shore of the Tuolumne River between Glen Aulin South to the low bridge pictured below.

 I can easily see the surface of this bridge four feet under the surface of the present surging flow of this year's ice-cold Spring Thaw.

NOTE: All of the following pictures of the Tuolumne River were taken during past backpacking seasons during low flow periods. These pictures do not represent current conditions.

Below: Looking South across the bridge from the Southern shore of the Tuolumne River.

Below: The low bridge sitting at the end of the Southbound approach hiking South on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail. This is the fnal section of heavily improved and protected surface of this highly used trail leading to the Northern anchorage of this low bridge on the North side of the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trail routes. 

Below: The rapids below the flat bridge in August. Note the wide scope of the runoff area here. This wide section funnels down to the falls.

Below: Between the upper low bridge and Glen Aulin there are steep falls and harsh rapids.

The other bridge, the lower bridge crossing the Tuolumne River at Glen Aulin is a big railed bridge. I figure they were swept off the low bridge above Glen Aulin, pictured above.

Below is the bridge over the Tuolumne River at Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp.

I find it highly unlikely that this was the bridge they were swept off. I can't imagine backpackers crossing the low bridge pictured above getting caught out on this higher and better railed bridge.

comments? questions? late experiences?

  That argument is irrelevant. When crossing ice cold water on any surface the amount of time you are able to sustain  physical strength and muscular control is severely limited. As soon as you enter the water extreme pain begins, and your strength and physical control begins to ebb at a predictable rate. Your job is to estimate that rate in reference to your objective.

LET THIS BE A WARNING TO ALL EARLY SEASON BACKPACKERS.

Many Pacific Crest Trail and Long Distance Backpackers are Modifying their Trip Plans to accomodate the conditions on the ground.

REPORT:

"Heavy Conditions" Detour for Long Distance Backpackers

I just received a late report from Jean Stricklee with her Questing Veterans reporting that Pacific Crest Trail hikers at Cottonwood and Lone Pine are currently bypassing the Sierra Nevada due to heavy snow and high runoff, as was the case last season. They are traveling North by various means of road transportation to points where they can find open trails and fordable rivers.

 No big surpirze for me here. The trajectory of this Spring and Winter seasons, composed of steady Spring Snows on a near-record late season snow pack, has maintained "Winter" travel conditons deep into Summer.

And now the Spring Thaw has come with a Vengence.

These Pacific Crest Trail hikers will backpack easier open sections of the Pacific Crest Trail up North, then double-back to the Southern Sierra later in the season, when conditions have cleared up, to hike between Mount Whitney and Lake Tahoe, The Crown Jewell of the Pacific Crest Trail, and the hardest and highest section of the whole PCT.

I'm sure that last freak snowstorm caused havoc with unprepared backpackers in the Sierra. Has anyone heard any reports of fatalities, self-rescues, or rescues from this latest storm?

I'll consider it a miracle if no one got caught out by that last storm. Don't think you are immune if you are a day hiker.

We need your INPUT AND EXPERIENCES!

Please post up your recent experiences and observations.

LATE UPDATES ON TODAY'S BACKPACKER DROWNINGS

9:30 PM PDT: First Printed Press Reports:

Yosemite: Hiker dead, another missing in runoff, SF Chronicle, June 30 2011.

2 hikers die after being swept off Yosemite bridge, Fresno Bee, June 30, 2011.

Whittier hospital staff members killed in Yosemite, KABC La, June 30, 2011.  

The Chronicle reports the men fell into Falls Creek off of the bridge below Wapana Falls, which is about 18 miles downriver, West of the bridges pictured above.

Falls Creek is the creek that the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trail follow down Jack Main Canyon to either Tilden Lake or Wilmer Lake, respectively.

Falls Creek continues Southwest from where the PCT trail junction at Wilmer Lake turns to take the long distance hiker South to Tuolumne Meadow . Falls Creek continues Southwest to drain into Hetch Hetchy. I have walked the lenght of Falls Creek to Hetch Hetchy.  

The Chronicle story indicates that the backpackers were crossing Falls Creek on their way  back from a trip East from the Hetch Hetchy Trailhead, likely to Tiltill Valley and back, which is a popular destination for backpackers out of Hetch Hetchy.

The story directly attributes the flood conditions to the heavy rainfall we received on June 28.

Earlier Hiker Deaths at Yosemite

Two die in Yosemite accidents, Mariposa Gazzette, May 19 2011

WARNING

This is a very dangerous Spring this year. Cold temps and wet conditions have persisted very late in the season at low elevations along with a deep wet snow pack. These conditions have created difficult hiking conditions for both low elevation day hikers and trail runners, as well as seriously delaying the plans of Summertime high elevation long distance backpackers up and down the length of the High Sierras. 

All Sierra fords are tremendously dangerous RIGHT NOW. Disgression is the greater part of valor. Do not put your life at risk trying to cross raging ice-cold runoff water at this point in the Spring Thaw.

It is much too dangerous.

I have been warning about these terribly dangerous conditions all Spring long. Read through the earlier reports below to see the evolution of these dangerous conditions during the last month.

Dangerous conditions for backpacker fording in the Sierra as well as severe riverside and lowland flooding will persist until the thaw diminishes.

If you come to a ford that is too dangerous to cross you have two options. First, wait until very early in the morning, when the low temps of the previous evening will have reduced  the thaw to its lowest daily height.

If that does not work you can either camp on low rations and wait for the excessive flow from the last rain to diminish, or try to turn East and hike out at Tuolumne. As all the drainages between Wapana Falls and Tuolumne will be as supercharged as Falls Creek at Wapana, logic would suggest that you find a safe location to camp at Wapana Falls and wait for Falls Creek to recede.

As I have said before and will say again, discretion is the better part of valor.

See you guys on the long trail in the sky

As the editor of Tahoe to Whitney I offer my deepest condolences to the family and friends of these backpackers on behalf of myself and all our members.

I will publish more details about this tragedy as they become available.

JUNE 28, 2011

Freak Heavy June Storm Brings Rain and Snow to Sierra Nevada

A strange and powerful storm has spun onto the West Coast of the US, and it is drawing moisture out of the Southwest Pacific. This storm is carrying HUGE amounts of warm moisture.

 Heavy Rains are currently falling up to 7000 feet (2 PM PDT), and heavy snow is falling above 7000 feet. This storm is producing heavier rainfall and bringing snow to lower altitudes than predicted.

The snowline was predicted at 8500 feet by the National Weather Service, but current reports indicate the snow level is down to 7000 feet as this storm is heading East up the Western flank of the Sierra Nevada.

As of this time the storm has not yeat arrived at Lake Tahoe. (2 PM PDT)

The good news is that this storm is supposed to pass by quickly. The bad news is that the rain from this storm is going to rise all the way up to 8500 foot level, as predicted, and rapidly melt away the vast amounts of snow sitting on the Sierra Crest.

Analysis

 This means two things to me. First, not much snow from this storm should stick to the ground or add to the existing snowpack. The air and ground's average temps are just too high, and I would not be surprised to see the rain line move to much higher elevations, and possibly rain across the Sierra Crest itself.

Second, rain falling up to 8500 foot elevation level will fully charge all the rivers. All rivers and streams will be fully charged with bringing a massive rain-driven rapid thaw down mountain.

All rivers and streams  will be flowing at dangerously high levels for backpacker fording at much higher elevations up the mountain than normal. High elevation streams that are normally easy to ford are going to be surging and dangerous.

The river levels at lower elevations are going to be very high and the water is going to be flowing very quickly. These conditions are extremely dangerous and may demand backpackers delay their ford or detour around it, if possible.

The upcoming forecast to the 4th of July is for this brief but powerful storm to be followed by temps rising to well above seasonal normal levels by the 4th of July. 

The current storm followed by another Heat Wave indicates to me that this rain is going to scour the snow off the Sierra Crest, which is going to be followed by continued rapid thaw from the upcoming temp rise.

Local and Regional Flood Dangers

My best assessment is that this one-two puch of rain and heat should remove most of the rest of the remaining snow along the Sierra Crest during the next two weeks.

The water and river managers in California are facing the immediate prospect of a catastrophic thaw driven by these heavy rains rapidly melting the snow off the mountains. This thaw may well be followed-up and perpetuated by the rapidly rising temps expected later this week.

These conditions dramatically increase the possibility of a catastrophic thaw bringing avalances in the high reaches of Sierra river's headwaters bowls, surging high altitude rivers full of debris and trees swept down by this rapid  thaw at abnormally high elevations, followed by low elevation flooding.

At the bottom of the Sierra Foothills the dams and delta which provide the majority of California's drinking water are going to be hard pressed by these precipitious runoff flows, and water managers must be having a hell of a time reducing existing water levels in the dams to prevent breeching or flooding, while trying to hold onto enough water to satisfy California's unnaturally bloated population later this Summer.

Backpacker Dangers

Backpackers and Pacific Crest Trail Hikers already on the High Sierra Trails are facing quite a test right now.

The Sierra Crest is experiencing heavy snowfall, cold temps, and high winds right now.

 Those hikers along the high points on the crest have to get down to lower elevations below the snowfall level as quickly as possible, and this may be difficult through the obscured visibility storm conditions create.  

 I say this because in my experience the average Pacific Crest Trail backpacker is not equipped nor experienced  for camping or travel in the normal range of conditions the Sierras can produce during a normal Summer, let alone for the Winter-like conditions this storm has brought with it to the very late snowpack already sitting on the Sierra Nevada.

This is the kind of Summer Storm that kills unprepared backpackers.

I can picture a number of ill-prepared Pacific Crest Trail hikers along the Sierra Crest right now sitting under their insufficient tarps, in their too-light sleeping bags, wearing all of their insufficient clothing, freezing.

They are considering activating their emergency locator to bring in rescue, but they know that the rescue will not come until after the storm. In the meantime they do not have the gear for travel or camping in snow.

Those backpackers in the river valleys between the major peaks and passes along the Crest should be low enough to be out of the snow, and I'm hoping they are hunkered down warm and dry in their tents waiting for the storm to pass.

I truly hope that all the backpackers on the Sierra Crest right now were wise enough to pack for the conditions they are experiencing, and did not base their gear selections on inexperienced expectations of ideal conditions.

All who packed for expectation, rather than reality, are suffering right now.

Check out my discussion on camp and trail skills and the gear section in the trail guide for information about being prepared for just these types of situations.

I'm hoping to get a report out of Reaper at Rae Lakes about the nature of the storm there, the condition of Pacific Crest Trail hikes and backpackers, and information on the number of rescues this storm is requiring.

News

 First snow fatality of this Summer's Season: Placerville woman dies after snow bridge collapses in Cottonwood Lakes area

Echo Lake re printed an SF Chronical Article about the danger of a precipitious thaw: Echo Lake Chalet. (scroll down for article)

JUNE 21, 2011

Heatwave!

California is experiencing a Heatwave that is rapidly melting this year's late season snowpack out of the Sierra.

Tioga Road was finally opened at 8am Saturday the 18th of June. Though all the roads over the Sierra are now open, yet we are still experincing standing snow down to 7000 feet in sheltered locations.  

The Sierra is experiencing hIghs in the 70s at 7000 feet. The snow is no longer thick, it is melting rapidly, but shaded and sheltered areas will continue to hold substantial snow. There is still a substantial coat of snow on the Sierra Crest, but its days are now numbered.

The snow shoeing season is finally over, but the high mountain passes, sheltered  sections of trail along mountain flanks, and other substantial snow obstacles on the North sides of  the Sierra Crest and peaks should still be anticipated for the next couple of weeks.

Early morning crossings of these features when they are still hard and slick from the evening chill can be pretty hairy. On the other hand, the snowpack will soften in the afternoon, and I would expect to post-hole through these sections when the temp reaches its daily highs.  

The mosquito season has begun in earnest: Be Prepared.

This heat wave is bringing tremendous amounts of water down mountain. High Meadows are going to be sloppy, the trails will be running like a creek below the melting snowline, little creeks will be running like rivers, and the rivers will be outright dangerous to cross:

Be Careful!  

The information below tracking the Sierra Thaw of 2011 will be preserved so future hikers have an example of the thaw progress through a heavy Spring to help provide information for planning future trips.

  JUNE 14, 2011

Deep Snow covers the whole Sierra Crest. 

The heat wave has begun kids. Expect the snowpack to start melting very rapidly. This means that the fords are really going to start getting hairy.  

For all weather, snow reporting stations, and river links, see below...  

JUNE 10 2011

 The news is grim: repeated late-season storms, cold tempertures, and a deep Winter snowpack have maintained snow levels at high and medium elevations, pushing trail access deep into July, by my recokening. But nothing would surprize me. A big Heat Wave is due...sooner or later!! 

June 10, 2011

Deep Snow covers the whole Sierra Crest. 

Conclusion: June 10, 2011

The mountains are not yet near to opening up for the high mileage long-distance Pacific Crest, Tahoe to Yosemite, or John Muir Trail backpackers.

Conditions are ideal for shorter snow backpacking trips up and down the Sierra.  

A late year for Snow Hikers to enjoy, while this snow will Delay PCT Hikers

These are ideal snow travel conditions, as I express below. But these are not good long-distance hiking conditions for PCT hikers. Unless you are highly skilled at long-distance snow travel in difficult conditions. I've seen 'em before.

I ran into a little french dude heading North on the PCT about 8 miles N of Sonora Pass during   early May'1998, I think it was. It was a very heavy Spring snowpack, and that little French dude would exit the Sierra before any of it melted off, at the pace he was traveling. Wow. He was rolling! (but he littered. I cleaned up his mess.) He was a month ahead of the dry-trail normal Pacific Crest Trail hikers.

 Without snow shoes for the route between peaks you will be post-holing. Without crampons and an ice axe for early morning mountain passes and mountain-side traverses, you will likely have to wait until afternoon to cross them, when thankfully, you will posthole.

Every one of the major bottlenecks on the trail will be blocked with heavy snow right now. Heavy Duty. 

 Highway Information

Highway 88 is kept open all year long, as are the Highways serving Lake Tahoe, 50 and 80. South of Highway 88 the highways are all seasonal.

Highways 4, 108, and 120 are all closed during Winter, and their opening date is a reflection of the Winter and Spring snow pack. None are yet open, and Yosemite is predicting a delayed opening of Highway 120 across Toulumne Meadows and Tioga Pass.

To check on the current status of these highways, check out the CalTrans page. The links to the Snow Tel and CDWR pages above both read out from sensors that are located near the main roads crossing the Sierra.

Mountain Highways, Caltrans

CalTrans Lake Tahoe Road Conditions Map

As the news article about Highway 120 above pointed out, they still have 7 feet of snow blocking Highway 120. I would guess these numbers reflect the depth of snow at Tuolumne Meadows, where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses, the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail ends, and we pick up the John Muir Trail.

The mountains are still packed with snow.

Yosemite Road Contitions

 Check out the Trail Guide for more information on all aspects of Sierra travel. See the Spring Travel section for last year's Reports on Spring Conditions.

But do note that last year we experienced very heavy Spring Snowstorms, which pushed back the opening of the High Sierra Trails until early JULY!!

Build your own picture of Sierra Conditions

The links above will give you a variety of data, including real time temps, snow depths, and precipitation along with recent and extended historical data. Pay special attention to the snow depth information. Combined with the elevation, the temperature, and the aspect of the terrain (what direction it is facing) you can start to get a good mental picture of how the snow is sitting on the mountains, where the snow-line is, and how quickly it is, or is not diminishing.

This information will help you to form some kind of prediction about when the mountains will clear of snow sufficient for your level of skills and fitness, as well as figuring out when the mountains will finally clear of snow for wide-open Summer backpacking conditions. But you have to analyize the information to make sense of it for your goals and skills.

Another Late Season in Formation?

As of this point in time, June 10, this season is working out much like last year, when extensive late-season Spring snows pushed back the the opening of the Sierra Nevada for Pacific Crest Trail hikers until July. But we have not yet gotten half of the snow that fell last Spring, so don't give up hope for a reasonable start time for your Pacific Crest Trail adventure. Yet...

But it looks right now like dry trails are still quite some time away, likely at least three weeks, and though mosquito free conditions traditionally begin around August 15, these wet Spring conditions and vast snowpack can deley the onset and end of the mosquitos. It is much too early to yet consider the end of the mosquitoes when they have not yet started.

But there is a a huge Winter snowpack getting supplemented by Spring Storms. If we get a heat wave followed by heavy rains at high elevation we could see a precipitous Spring Thaw like we last saw in 1998.

Check out this report about the devastation along the North Fork of the Mokelumne caused by the precipitious Spring Thaw of 1998.

Recent Conditions: June 4, 2011

Smelled like rain all Friday, the 3rd, but no rain started falling until 1:30AM early Saturday morning. Constant moderate rain fell until Noon Saturday the 4th.

This storm is much warmer that the previous series of storms, which is going to bring rain to high elevations on the snow pack. This is going to result in a real surge in runoff and river flow levels. Be very carefull with fords.

I include the following chart so you can directly link up to some snow sensors, and compare mid-May conditions with current conditions:  

Current Sierra Snow Conditions: Wednesday May 18 2011

Elevation            Location            Recent Snow: Inches            Total Snow: Feet

7670                Echo Peak                11                                                           7.33          

8500            Carson Pass                   10                                                         8.25               

8029            Forestdale Creek            11                                                       9.75                    

8765                Ebbetts Pass            12                                                           8.5              

9617            Sonora Pass            10                                                               16.5          

Last Report: June 1 2011 

Weak but constant storms have been buffeting the Sierra Nevada for the past few days, putting snow above 5 to 7000 feet, including today. Wow.  Here's a quote from a message Jim sent after an overnighter to Mt. Tallac May 28-29:

"Got blown off Mt. Tallac Saturday, and had 5" of snow on the tent Sunday morning!  the mosquitoes are looking forward to a great year.  Will update you when I get down south.  Thanks for the note and I wish you perfect health!"  

Jim was up on Mt. Tallac when blustery winds blew in a weak storm, if there is such a thing as "weak" at elevation. Mt. Tallac peaks out at 9734 feet.

Spring storms are a joy in the Sierra. But they can shift from snow to rain quickly this late in the season.

Earlier Report: May-28-2011

 After two days of very blustery winds since May 25, Saturday brought the arrival of a weak storm with light rains that is crossing the Sierra today and this evening.

This weak low is expected to finish breaking apart as it passes East. Check out this big picture of this storm on the National Radar.  The national radar image breaks down into regions.

 Temps will remain low but windy this upcoming week, with another pulse of rain/snow expected next weekend.

Though the Spring Thaw is underway, it is moving slow due to repeated small storms and low temps.

Memorial Weekend Car Campers are looking at wet and windy conditions, while backpackers should plan for snow trips if their elevation exceeds 7000 feet, while those below 7000 should be ready for windy, wet, and cold conditions.  

    To understand the evolution of the Spring Thaw I am leaving up recent reports. This way you can track the recent series of storms that have accompained us into late May. 

Recent News  

Passes to open by holiday weekend, Union Democrat, May 25, 2011

Snow could hamper campers,  Sonora, Union Democrat, May 25, 2011  

Earlier Spring Thaw Reports:

Current Conditions: May-25-2011

As of 2:17 PM PDT rain is falling up to, and possibly above, 6000 feet of elevation. Snowfall, if happening at all, will be very light. 

The current Radar Map shows heavy rain falling on Sierra Crest both North and South of Lake Tahoe. If it is going to snow along the Sierra Crest, it will have to happen tonight when the temps drop.

Northstar, as ski resort just North of Lake Tahoe has web cams viewing the action at different elevations ranging from the wet slush falling at the 8610 foot top of the mountain down to the heavy rain falling at its 6330 foot base. (3:27 PM PDT)

I doubt we will see much snow out of this weak low, and the rain will hasten the thaw of the snowpack and increase river flows.

As you can see from this series of NWS weather maps, this storm is an ill-formed low  that is likely to blow through quickly.

The maps also show another weak low-pressure zone sliding down along the Pacific Coastline from Alaska, weakenting as it comes South, and it is likely to be breaking-up as it comes across the Sierra when it arrives this weekend.

  Winds are expected to be strong all week, and fierce gusts are expected at higher elevations. Gusts of up to 70 mph are being predicted by the NWS.   

Rain now, and possible rain next weekend, have to potential to shift the thaw into high gear if the temps do start warming up this week between these weak lows.

Current forecasts call for rain and snow up high, with rain below the 5-6000 foot level depending on location, through this evening. Tomorrow looks like a windy, but clearing day.  

Late News

Passes to open by holiday weekend, Sonora, Union Democrat, May 25, 2011

Snow could hamper campers,  Sonora, Union Democrat, May 25, 2011

Mountain Highways, Caltrans  

Recent Past Reports

Prior to today, the 25th, we have had generally clear weather since the last storm ended on the 18th. Warming temps after the 18th decreased during the last few days prior to this current storm.

Brief Update: Saturday the 21st of May 2011

Four Days of Clear Weather with INCREASING Tempertures since the Last Storm.

Check the snow depth figures from May 18 posted below with the current figures to determine the rate of melting during the last FOUR DAYS of CLEAR WEATHER.

Last Full Update: End of Storm Report of Wednesday 5-18-11

Conditions on 5-18-11: Heavy Spring Snows Fell on the Sierra for DAYS

The Storms have just passed, the Skies are clearing, and high temps are anticipated.

Recent Storm History

Two storm pulses crossed the Sierra since last Friday the 14th of May. The first pulse came through on Friday the 14th and Saturday the 15th. This second storm pulse arrived Monday the 16th and  terminated early on   Wednesday morning,   the 18th. 

NOW: Ideal Spring Snow Conditions for snow campers are opening up for late May of 2011  

The Week of: May 15 to 21

Wednesday, May 18 UPDATE: After two days of Sierra Snow from Monday to early Wednesday morning, this latest storm pulse has cleared the Pacific Coast during the morning and is clearing the Sierra as of early afternoon.  The forecasts are calling for clearing skies and tempertures into the 50s are expected as the week develops. There is a slight chance of snow for this upcoming weekend we are watching.

Carson Pass Forecast

Monday, May 16 UPDATE: The last weather pulse crossed over the Sierra dropping a FOOT and a HALF on parts of the Crest on Friday and Saturday last. Today, Monday the 16th we are getting the second pulse of this series of storm arms.  

Recent Storm HIstory: May 13 to 18

The first pulse of this storm series on Friday and Saturday last was gentle, more of a squall, (and it put 1.5 feet of snow on the Sierra!) and Monday's pulse is much the same, but Monday's storm brought almost continious precipitation until early Wednesday morning. These Spring Snows did not pack ot a lot of power compared to Winter Storms, though they held some substantial moisture for the month of May.

May 14 & 16 & 17 Sierra Storm Warnings from National Weather Service:

Current Winter Storm Warnings in Sierra Nevada  

If it is still snowing in the North and Central Sierra, you can see it on this National Weather Service Radar out of Reno. 

Aftermath

The snow predicted for the first two days of the week of 5-16-2011 has come and now gone. This Storm hit the California Coast at about 2:00 PM PDT on Monday the 16th, and ended early in the AM on Wednesday the 18th of May.

Let's see how much snow it put on the Sierra Crest close to some points along the Pacific Crest Trail in the Northern Sierra. 

Current Sierra Snow Conditions: Wednesday May 18 2011

Elevation            Location            Recent Snow: Inches            Total Snow: Feet

7670                Echo Peak                11                                                           7.33          

8500            Carson Pass                   10                                                         8.25               

8029            Forestdale Creek            11                                                       9.75                    

8765                Ebbetts Pass            12                                                           8.5              

9617            Sonora Pass            10                                                               16.5                   

Recent News

May 17 News from Lake Tahoe: now expected to stick overnight in Tahoe. That's relevant because the Tahoe Basin's elevation is only 6000 feet! This means that snow is still sticking low.

May 9 News from Lake Tahoe: It's snowing at 7500 feet in the Sierra. This is also a reminder of the closure of Highway 50 at Echo Summit.

Modesto Bee, 5-7-11, Heavy Snows likely to delay opening of Highway 120 at Tioga Pass

(More highway information below) 

Conclusion: June 1, 2011

The mountains are not yet near to opening up for the high mileage long-distance Pacific Crest, Tahoe to Yosemite, or John Muir Trail backpackers.

Conditions are ideal for shorter snow backpacking trips up and down the Sierras.

Overall Conditions: Unchanged as of June 1

Currently, we are experiencing classic Heavy Spring conditions in the Sierra. Deep snow, (fine weather in the future), no bugs, not much rain, and no deep surging runoff waters up high to cross. Yet.

The "Yet" has occured. This weekend's rain is going to fall high up the mountains, bringing a surge in runoff flows.

The high elevation drainages are going to start running now!!

All of these factors are changing. Right now the snow pack has finally stopped deepening...which is the change long-distance backpackers are looking for in June. But it is getting charged-up, or at least the thaw is being delayed by this interesting series of late season storms.

This June 4 rain storm should change all that.

The snow pack will seriously diminish under this rain. Spring rains are now  falling, the high meadows will finally start opening up, massive clouds of mosquitoes will soon rise out of the exposed meadows, and the creeks and rivers will surge with intensely dangerous runoff.

But not as June 1....!!!! Except for the rivers: they are getting heavy. Now, as of June 4 I am looking for a serious rapid thaw that will bring the rivers up quickly.

I figure that all of this lower elevation rain we just experienced between the 13 and 18th, and now up to June First already brought all the main rivers at lower elevations up to levels too dangerous to cross.

These last rains (May 25th), along with the heavy rain we are now getting will start the Spring Thaw in earnest. But alas, this is signaling the end of the snow camping season.But hopeful Pacific Crest Trail hikers are painfully aware that the date when the Sierras will be passable for all non-snow travel backpackers is no longer being pushed back...but the trails are no where near being open.

Note the depth of snow along key points along the trail linked to on this page for more detailed information.

Ideal Spring Conditions will persist...

It appears to me that we now are just seeing the end of the ideal snow travel and snow camping conditons for properly prepared, experienced, and equipped snow backpackers.

(Quote from May:) These conditions should persist to the second week of June.

If you love snow camping in the Sierra, now is the time to go (After this current storm clears), because the snow season is finally coming to an end.

Long days, high temps, and deeply compressed snows make this the best time to enjoy the Sierra while it is still shrouded in snow, beautiful snow...

Meaning

Are these late-season snows a curse or blessing? That's up to you!

Pacific Crest Trail hikers may want to consider this a good Summer to do a section of the PCT, as the hiking season is looking pretty short right now...

The mountains are not yet near to opening up for the high mileage long-distance Pacific Crest, Tahoe to Yosemite, or John Muir Trail backpackers. Conditions for shorter snow backpacking trips up and down the Sierras are finally coming to a close.

Evolution

The ideal snow travel conditions we are currently experiencing will shortly transform into wetness. The Spring thaw is here.

(May Quotes:)

And it may come all at once. A heavy Spring snow was stacked upon a record Winter snowpack. A heat wave could precipitiously melt down this massive snowpack.

Very soon, now that this series of storms ended, the high snow covered meadows and drainages we cross between the mountain peaks will begin opening up, essentially collasping into themselves.

Joys of the Spring Thaw

The undercutting flow of melting snow waters draining from the surrounding peaks will have already over-saturated and undercut the meadow snows even before their snow covering  finally collapses as we tramp across. There's nothing like breaking through meadow snows into the six inches of freezing water that undercut it.

These overflowing waters will saturate the meadows, flow down mountain everywhere possible, fill the trails with runoff flows, supercharge the creeks, and ultimately surge into the swolen rivers far below. All fords will be dangerous during this high flow runoff period.

The period of sloppy travel and dangerous river crossings that begins with the thaw also times the explosion of mosquitoes that follows the thaw up the mountains. Both have been pushed back deeper into the Summer season.

Raging Rivers

This means that the Rivers may still be running at peak flow levels much later into the season than normal, when flows would have normally receeded into easy fording experiences. Once conditions open up enough that you think you can cross the snow covered passes between the mountaintops you better also take a look at the surging rivers that divide them.

Two things kill backpackers in the Sierra: Lightening and Fording. We're still way too early for the lightening, but we are already experiencing dangerous fording conditions at lower elevations, and these flood conditions will climb up into the higher drainages as the thaw progresses. Once it really gets started...

This fact may cause some long-distance backpackers to consider delaying their start even a tad bit later than the point when the High Sierra Trails begin opening up from under the snow to allow the surging rivers full of runoff to ebb a bit.

See it in Safety

Spring travel in the Sierras is a beautiful experience. If you are planning to hike the Pacific Crest Trail through across the snow-covered Sierras you must adapt your trip to the conditions. Consider that your daily mileages will be low, your pack will be heavy with extra insulation and snow travel gear, and you will need more days and food to cross a given distance.

Spring Travel in the Sierra: Food, Gear, Terrain, and Conditions.

Seasonal Change and the Mosquito Cycle in the Sierra 

Delights and Dangers of Spring Travel

Soon, very soon, every piece of terrain will become part of the thaw's drainage system: Trails will first appear as seams in the snow line, then as small trickles under the snow, ocassionally breaking through the snow covering along their seam-line, and before you know it, the trails are running like little creeks bringing the thaw down mountain.

The high creeks swell into short-lived but surging Spring rivers, which in turn will smash themselves into supercharged rivers already raging with Spring's delightful fury.

 When the thaw really gets flowing you can hear and feel it's thunder pounding the earth next to even small drainages. You can feel the thunder in the earth as you approach creeks and  rivers. And you can hear it too, but in places and ways you might not expect. 

High up the mountain in early Spring, below the point where the snows are rapidly melting, you can sometimes hear the very earth itself gurggling and sucking as the massive thaw passes through the saturated soil down mountain. 

It is during this time of Spring that the trails across the unconsolidated volcanic soils of peaks such as Raymond and Sonora Peaks flow down the mountain. 

Life is getting ready to explode across the Sierra

The same thaw that brings the flood also brings the wildflowers, and the explosion of life that is Spring in the Sierra...and the mosquitoes.

The opening of the high trails through the mountain top gaps also signals the beginning of the most dangerous time to cross the Sierra's rivers. This is during the Spring Thaw. Many rivers will be uncrossable until the thaw diminishes

Be as careful crossing the snow packed gaps through the mountains as when crossing the swollen drainages between the gaps. Disgression is strongly suggested. If you are not skilled at crossing snow packed high mountain passes or the surging drainages that separate these passes, the start date of your backpacking trip is looking like late July!

My Current (OLD NOW: week of 5-9-11) assessment of the opening of the high trails

Writing to a horsepacker, I said,

"...in my opinion that "opening" point may happen around June 1 to June 15, (weather dependent) but the trails may not open until the 15th, and we may yet still see some weather, though not likely. Except that last year we got around 8 feet of snow in May...Out of nowhere!"

When I say "open trails" I mean the approaches to the high mountain gaps should be open. The gaps themselves will likely be packed with snow, at least on their North Sides. Snow aprons across the gaps in the mountains will not be uncommon, and the occassional steep beard of snow across mountain side trails must not be an unexpected event early in the season.

Another horsepacker, an expert at High Sierra mounted travel and a long observer of Sierra weather and the thaw into Summer conditions just told me "May is way to early this year" for Sumer travelers to expect open trails.

Then and Now: Some recent HIstory

The trend prior to 2010 was for earlier and eariler Sierra trail opening times. In the early 1990s it was unthinkable to follow the PCT South to Sonora Pass over Sonora Peak on June 1. By 2004 I was doing this section in mid-May! Big changes in when the Seasons begin and end have happened in the Sierra.

Traverses across mountainsides, like those between the shoulders of Leavitt Peak, and the long traverse the trail makes along the Southern Flank of Sonora Peak, are known bottlenecks that will block long-distance backpackers until they clear of snow. And it looks like one of those years when the bottlenecks will persist into early July, as the conditions are shaping up right now. We'll see. 

This means that even when the lower parts of the trail are open, early through hikers will still require ice axes and crampons to safely cross the high passes and traverses along the trail. "Early" is defined by the conditions, not by any particular date.

These snow-packed areas high up the mountains will recede up mountain becoming smaller and shorter until they finally melt out, and you can ship your extra snow gear home at the next resupply point.

Thus I offer the links to real time reporting stations, so you can find your own information, and draw your own conclusions as to the timing of the stages of the Spring Thaw. If I heal up before the game is up, I'll go do some scouting.

But right now it looks like a later, rather than an early opening of the High Sierra Trails for standard Summertime Backpackers.  

Recent News and Infomation

Echo Summit

Weather not changing Caltrans’ Echo Summit closure plans

posted here 5-9-2011

El Dorado National Forest, home page:

Mormon Emigrant Trail Remains Closed Due to Snow

Posted here  5-7-2011

Highway 120 across Tuolumne to Tioga:

 Heavy Snows likely to delay opening of Highway 120 at Tioga Pass

 Modesto Bee, 5-7-11  

Input

I invite all y'all locals to post your Spring Thaw notes, observations, and informaiton about your scouting trips anywhere in the Sierras Here. "Here" is this year's Seasonal Reports section of the Tahoe to Whitney Backpacker's Forums.

I'll be here providing Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter reports, and look forward to seeing your posts on the changing seasonal conditions here too.

I need other early season High Sierra Backpackers, hikers, horsemen, and trail crew to report their experiences so we can provide long-distance backpackers with the information they need to properly time their trips.

 There is a comments link at the bottom of this page. I would love you to post your own reports/pages about the evolution of trail conditions in the Sierra here, but you must register to post stand-alone reports.

The Goal

The goal is to provide the information so long-distance backpackers can determine the condition of the main trails North and South along the Sierra Crest.

Of course this will be dependent upon the skill level of the hiker. The mountains are never closed, if you have the skills required to open them up. But snow camping is a very different experience with very different expectations than a long-distance trek on the long trails.

This page is focused on determining the current condtions on the main Sierra routes, and when they will emerge from under the snow to be usable by long-distance hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail, Tahoe to Yosemite Trail, and John Muir Trail. 

This information will also help short distance Summer backpackers waiting for hard ground, as well as snow campers hoping to get a last Spring Snow trip under their belt before the snows melt away.

Scope

We will track the snow conditions from the point when snow and mountaineering skills are required to follow the trail routes over the high mountains, (Now!, 5-18-11) until only the high passes are snow-bound, to when the trails are finally and fully cleared of snow for Summertime backpackers and long-distance hikers.

I am a little handicapped in this effort, as I am still recovering from a bit of frostbite that I caught hitchhiking back from a Winter trip earlier this year. But I have eyes, ears, friends, and a wide variety of resources that I will draw together for your inspection here.  

Post your comments below, or Register to post your own Spring Thaw pages here with your information and insight.

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